Wednesday, March 19, 2014

The Wedding Dress -- The Zipper Is Stronger Than I.

hand basted zipper

DD must have tried on the bodice a dozen times over the last couple of days. I kept adjusting the folds of the wraps and the fit of the base bodice. She wants the wraps to be fairly snug, but try as I might, I could not pull the zipper side together and get pins to stay. My fear was that I had not cut the bodice pieces correctly and it was not big enough (even though the muslin had fit like a glove). So, I decided that I would hand baste the zipper into the opening and see what happened.

zipper in wedding bodice
After reviewing the section on adding a zipper to a garment in the on-line couture class that I took last summer, I carefully pinned one side of the zipper to the bodice and hand basted from the top of the zipper to the bottom. Repeating on the other side from bottom to top, I finished the zipper. It was pretty hard going in a few places as there are several layers of fabric with the folding.

Then came another try with DD. After all of the tugging and pulling and worrying that it was too small; the bodice zipped up without a hitch!!! In fact, I will actually have to take in both the side seams and re-position the zipper because it isn't snug enough!

I followed Susan Khalji's advice in the video regarding not using an invisible zipper because they cannot take the stress that a regular zipper can take. DD certainly does not what a sudden popped zipper to ruin her wedding ceremony. I did not do a great job at getting the sides of the zipper to close completely over the zipper. But, since I have to take out the zipper and re-position it, I have another crack at getting both sides to meet. Then, I will handpick the zipper permanently in place. I am not worried about the zipper in the skirt as that does not require as much work and there will be less stress on that zipper.

I have added a couple of excellent links below on handpicking zippers. This couture step, when done correctly, is both beautiful and strong!

Sew Me Love
Threads Magazine Tutorial

Additional Note: By the way, I had read where silk shouldn't be pinned in the body of the dress as the pin marks could leave a permanent mark. I am thrilled to report that this dupioni is VERY resilient! I have even taken out seams sewn on my machine and no marks have been left. This fabric's biggest challenge is that it frays so easily. It does not take much at all to have several loose threads hanging. I think it could fray if you stare at it too hard!

Happy Sewing!!!!

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