The Wedding Dress -- The Flirt Skirt -- Changing the Pattern from Five Panels to Six

Back Panel of Simplicity 1760

Drew strait line past kick pleat

A few days ago, I posted that I had selected a pattern for DD's flirt skirt for the post wedding party. I explained that one of the things that I planned on doing was changing the back of the skirt from two panels to 3 panels making a total of 6 panels. This means that I will have 6 seams fairly evenly spread out around the hem of the skirt so that the box pleats (yes DD selected the box pleats) are also evenly disbursed.

Simplicity 1760 has a kick pleat and zipper along the center line. The zipper will be moved to the left side to match the zipper position of the bodice. By removing the kick pleat, I then had a straight line for the fold.

Marking the dart for cutting

There is also a dart in the center of each panel. I decided that the easiest way to divide the back, was to split it right though the dart. On the pattern piece, I drew a line parallel with the grain line from the point of the dart to the hemline. I then took my fashion ruler and drew in a curve from that point through the two top points of the dart. These lines are now my seam line.

I then pinned the piece to muslin and marked the back side panels with my tracing wheel and wax paper. When that piece was completely marked, I removed the pattern and marked another piece of muslin folded on the grain. This gives me three panels -- two sides and a center which was cut on the fold.

In the picture below you can see where the seam lines are marked. The 'X's are the center point of the former dart. I'll put the muslin together without the box pleat for the fitting. I don't want to do all the work for six box pleats just to find out that the skirt is 6 inches too long.

The marked former dart

I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel as far as the muslin is concerned. My DD arrives for the Thanksgiving holiday and her fitting. We are also setting aside a day for a special trip to Vogue Fabrics to purchase the silk for her dress.

I have one last experiment left to see how big my circle ruffles need to be in order to get the perfect ruffle. One of my sewing friends suggested making the ruffles wider as they go down the skirt. Guess I will add that thought to the experiments.

Happy sewing!