The Right Tools for the Job

From top to bottom: flexible 16" ruler; tracing wheel; glass headed, ultra-fine pins; and sliding marking gauge.

Although I have been sewing off and on for years, I have never done what is considered couture sewing and therefore have nave never had some of the tools which are necessary to do an adequate job. So, I will have to begin accumulating them. Above and below are some of the toys -- er, um, "tools" -- that I purchased at my local craft and fabric store today. Some of these tools may be familiar to you and some of them may not, so lets jump right in and find out what makes these useful for the couture sewer.

Fashion ruler a.k.a French Curve

Fashion ruler or French Curve -- This is a design tool used by pattern makers to act as a template for drawing curved seams such as necklines, hip curves and armholes. Since couture sewing assumes that you will not use a store bought pattern "as is", this is also used to alter pattern pieces to fit to eventual wearer of the garment.

Flexible 16" Ruler -- This ruler is made of a flexible material that can be curved into any shape, and once there, stay in that shape. First off, this means that you can use it to create a curve that is not available on a French Curve. Secondly, you can easily mold it to a seam line in order to check the length of any curved section of a pattern.

Tracing Wheel -- This is a tool that is used to transfer markings from a pattern to fabric. Carbon or wax tracing paper is placed below the fabric and the pattern above the fabric and with a firm easy movement, the tool is wheeled along the sewing lines, grain lines and other necessary markings. The pressure transfers a colored wax or carbon from marking paper to the fabric. Tracing wheels come with various length "teeth". The thicker the fabric, the longer the teeth need to be.

Glass Headed, Ultra-Fine Pins -- These pins are useful for precise pinning with delicate fabric. The head is made of glass which means that it won't melt and ruin either the fabric or iron when ironing. Some fabrics in couture are so fine that regular pins leave big holes. I have other pins that I use for quilting that are much longer and thicker so that you can pin multiple layers of fabric together.

Sliding Marking Gauge -- This is a great way of keeping your sewing accurate. With it, you can measure and hark hems for sewing, add seam allowances to pattern pieces on patterns (European pattern companies give you only the sewing line -- you add the seam allowance),spacing buttonholes, tucks and pleats.

These are just a few of the things that I need to get, but I can only afford so much at a time, so as I accumulate more items, I will show you the ones you might find interesting.

Happy sewing!